Jump to content

Toggle shoutbox Shoutbox Open the Shoutbox in a popup

remember the shoutbox isnt private logged on users can view the shoutbox ! If you cant make a shout hit ctrl & F5 together to re-load your javascript it should then work !
@  renegade1300sp : (25 November 2020 - 06:29 PM) changing oil filter
@  Od Boy : (25 October 2020 - 08:38 PM) starting
@  sjf3 : (23 September 2020 - 10:25 PM) I'm a newbie 2008 XJR owner the case fins on the motor are very grubby and corroded what can i use to clean them up
@  angelic upstart : (10 September 2020 - 06:37 PM) anyone know what size the header nut are. 2005 model
@  KrazyK : (29 August 2020 - 01:44 PM) 2008 XJR1300 clocks/odometer/start-up diagnostics not working, any suggestions? Checked all obvious fuses/connections.
@  Lloyd. Com : (10 August 2020 - 10:51 PM) Hi all..... Just bought one of these beasts...... I had one from new 20 years ago.... Just picked this 2015 model up with 2600 miles on it..... Looking forward to making some happy biking miles.
@  SVS : (24 July 2020 - 10:47 AM) oil
@  SVS : (24 July 2020 - 10:46 AM) oil leak
@  shazza36 : (14 July 2020 - 12:55 PM) HELP NEEDED- speedo is not working properly, anyone know where i could get a 2nd hand one from that doesnt cost an absolute fortune ?? thanks in advance
@  Hedgie : (30 June 2020 - 08:19 AM) tyres
@  linfield 1000 : (20 June 2020 - 10:30 PM) xjr 1300 rear brake caliper seizing ,new seals and corrosion removed ,new pads fitted ,ride a few miles and seizes again virtually locked . any help much appreciated
@  nordude : (23 May 2020 - 01:39 PM) code 37
@  hopkins : (26 April 2020 - 10:14 AM) Hi there I have a 2003 XJR 1300 (recent purchase) took her out as usual, before the next ride out had no neutral light and she will not start? all other electrics work ok e.g. indicators, head light...stripped the ignition switch down (no issues) anyone had the same problems? if so please help me with this....cheers :-)
@  Joes : (22 March 2020 - 02:03 PM) How can I delete my account
@  lawtom : (17 March 2020 - 03:09 PM) Anyone help on my faulty clutch....??... ?
@  MAX064 : (21 February 2020 - 09:47 AM) slave cylinder
@  lawtom : (23 January 2020 - 08:18 AM) clutch
@  Boot : (20 January 2020 - 11:08 AM) From where?
@  zackzzz : (20 January 2020 - 10:44 AM) leaking oil
@  Boot : (03 January 2020 - 02:36 PM) Flat Battery!!


Downshifting &"blipping" The Throttle

  • Please log in to reply
No replies to this topic

#1 Mogster


    Your worst Nightmare

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 4,350 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:St Albans ...Italy
  • Interests:Humoring XJR owners,<br />Riding exotic Italian Motorbikes velly fast!... <br />Powerkite flying.. <br />Archery (cos we aint allowed guns in this country)
  • Country:

Posted 30 May 2008 - 06:19 AM

Downshifting &"Blipping" the Throttle

Now I know you peeps like to hear the sound of a finely tuned XJR on the xorst overrun…. Whilst dropping into a corner, But and tis a big well rounded BUT… what is not so much fun (unless you are me :P: ) is when the rear wheel locks as you let the clutch out.
Now there are a couple of ways to deal with this one is to fit a ‘slipper clutch’ or a cheaper version is to learn to match your engines revs to your road speed.
Alternatively you can always squeal like a girl and crash into the hedge. :lol: :lol:

1. Downshifting smoothly on a Bike, especially while braking hard from high speed, requires a definite measure of skill and dexterity. In order to avoid upsetting the bike, the engine rpm must be matched to road speed when the clutch is fully disengaged, otherwise the rear tire will momentarily "chatter" and upset the bike as the engine is forced to match road speed involuntarily. This means that the rider must "blip" the throttle to raise the engine rpm during downshifts-but he must do this while simultaneously pulling on the front brake lever to slow down. While this riding skill is obviously necessary on the racetrack, it can also pay big dividends on road riding situations where riding smoothly is a must; for instance, any situation where you are cornering and braking at the same time.

2. The idea of blipping the throttle between downshifts can be intimidating for the uninitiated, but with a little practice, the technique can soon become second nature. First, make sure that your levers are adjusted so that they are comfortably in reach of your fingers when sitting in a normal riding position, and that your throttle is adjusted for minimal play in the cable. The front brake lever should be angled downward enough to be easily gripped with your hand in the closed throttle position. With the engine running in neutral, try blipping the throttle slightly while pulling firmly on the brake lever-note that it doesn't take much throttle movement to get the revs up. Then practice simultaneously pulling and releasing the clutch quickly when you blip the throttle (remembering to continue pulling on the brake lever as if you were slowing for a corner).

3. The next step is to practice this technique while riding in a safe area with no traffic. As you brake and begin your downshift, simply perform the same practice drill as before, but add the act of downshifting. The action of blipping the throttle and the downshift should be simultaneous and quick, and it doesn't take a whole lot of revs to match the engine to road speed; unless you're riding at racetrack aggression levels, all it will require is a slight throttle blip. With practice, you'll know just how much is necessary at various speeds. Note that mostly the palm of your hand handles the act of moving the throttle because your upper body weight is centered on your palms under braking anyway, and your fingers are busy actuating the brake and holding the bar. All it takes is a slight wrist movement to blip the throttle. You'll find this will help avoid affecting your braking action due to influencing your fingers' grip on the brake lever.

4. If you find that you still have problems with this technique, try adjusting your brake lever in so that it's easier to reach (without hindering your ability to pull the lever in for maximum braking, of course). If you still have trouble, you will have to employ the "non-blip" method. This simply means the clutch is released gradually after the downshift so that the engine rpms can progressively match road speed without the rear wheel chattering. The downside is that the rider loses the added engine braking while the clutch is disengaged and the bike "freewheels," and he must compensate with the additional use of the brakes during this time. Also, it requires even more skill at manipulating and controlling the bike while simultaneously releasing the clutch lever slowly and gradually.
Fight to win, not to kill.
There's no triumph over a corpse.
But a beaten opponent, who will remain beaten every day, for the remainder of their sad and wretched life.
Is something to treasure.....

0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users